Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum | Daggerboard planing rudder blank transom re enforcement Oar Prototype 1

Pontoon Boat Plans Aluminum

Well, a busy frenetic post. Lots of small items got done over the past few days on my Goat Island Skiff.

Daggerboard planing:

The daggerboard needed to get smoothed out. It was a lumpy mess.


I didnt know whether to hit it with the orbital sander or my hand plane. I really just want to feed it through a real machine plane since I need to lose 2mm off the blank, but maybe Ill do that by hand... (?) However, in the end I got a roughly smoothed out daggerboard using my hand planes. It was not as tortuous as I thought it would be, and it all worked out pretty good in the end.


Rudder blank:

I also needed to get my rudder glued up. Initially this had not occured along the daggerboard due to the lack of appropriate timber, I had used my supply dedicated to the blades for the daggerboard mostly. However, I did have a lump of cedar left over from the stem. I had forgotten about this one. It took a few minutes of brainstorming, a couple of swipes on the table saw, and in no time I had my blank, and it was glued up on underneath the ubiquitous heat tent in my 45 deg. F garage.


A different wood pattern than the daggerboard, but that is OK by this amateur!

Transom:

Then it came to my attention that my transom was not backed up enough for the rudder. The intrepid reader will remember when I put the backing to the rudder gudgeons on the transom. It was a sticky mess. WELL I should have looked at Duckworks first and checked out the dimensions of the equipment I was going to use. Then, I could have fitted an appropriate backing. I did not. My backing was far too inadequate, so today I added sides to it for a 6" width, and then sandwiched on another solid layer on top.



The brick weighs it all down.

Finally, how in tarnation am I going to propel this boat when there is no wind? By oar!

Oars-- Oar Prototype #1:

My oarlocks, sockets, and another hatch came in the mail yesterday.

YAY MAIL!

The oarlocks are beautiful. I got two pairs of sockets, one for the gunwales, and another pair so I could have a socket on the transom, in case I lose an oarlock or oar, I can still yuloh my way to shore and safety. Search yuloh.

This also means it was time to try my hand at oar-making, which interested my lovely wife.

Jim Michalak offers us some oar plans in his book, Boatbuilding for Beginners, and I used those. Storer also has free oar plans available, but Michalaks were simpler, and I decided to mix and match a little bit. No problems, right? Haha.

My oars for the GIS should be about 9. Technically, 92", which is what we used. I bought two cheap pieces of pine lumber to make my oars, 10 long each. Each board will offer up all three layers for the laminate construction of this oar. The plans call for oars that are 6 11" long. We extended these oars 23" (27") by using a formula at Shaw and Tenny oar-makers extra-ordinaire.

58" (width lock to lock) / .5 = 29 + 3 = 31" of inboard length.

The grip on these plans are 5" long and the inboard portion of the loom is 16", so we added 10" to make it 26" + 5" = 31"

The remainder of the 27" was 17" and we added this to the outboard section of the loom.

Then, off to map the stations, trace and cut.

After some deliberation I decided to cut the entire oar, all three blanks, by hand. So away I ripped with my Japanese handsaw. It was more accurate than the jigsaw, and quieter. The table saw would have been a sweat-fest. Here we are, half-way through one side of the main blank:


Then, with 4" to go on the last laminate side, a eye-knot snapped, and sent the last 6" of one of the laminates that attached to the blade soaring into the garage. BOO. I had just ripped 20 feet of board by hand, and the last 6" decided to let go.


So I decided that this end was going to get the shaft (haha) and it was going to be a little short. Prototype #1, right?

I did a mini-scarf by cutting right on through the two pieces, eliminated the knot, using the method illustrated below:


Then, off to the basement for the gluing!



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Boden Boat Plans Australia | Knees are fitted

Boden Boat Plans Australia

Enough said! Big day mentally, for this build. This was a step I was really looking forward to finishing. I feel like the hull is basically complete, besides the millions of little things. Structurally, shes sound. I like that.




The bow knee/breasthook took two tries, but I am happy with it. The plans call for the stem to be basically 19mm below the top of the ply, and the breasthook will slip over the top of it. My stem comes right to the top (my mistake) so Im butting it up against the back end. The fit is not super tight, but close enough to be filled with a little epoxy. The rest of the fit is really nice.

The stern knees also took a few tries and were a little trickier, I thought, due to the cut-out for for the inwale and the bevels needed to accommodate the sides and the transom.


Heres what I wrote to my compatriot in Sacramento about making the stern knees.


1. First I traced the corner before I installed the inwale spacer or the inwale. If you didnt do this, dont despair, make something up.

2. Bevel the Transom-side FIRST before making any cuts to accomodate the inwale. This way, you will have it appropriately sized before you cut the space for the inwale. This is what I did not do my first time around, and when I beveled Transom-side the whole knee slid back, creating a gap aft of the inwale.

3. Measure the cut you need for the inwale

4. Cut space for inwale.

5. Bevel Side-side. Then, eyeball the inside of the cut, it will be the same bevel. I used my dremel drum sander, and chiselled out the corner, carefully.

Tight DF is a bitch to plane/bevel.

Good luck. Make sure you can make a few of them if need be, materials wise.

See better pictures here.

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Wooden Boat Plans Australia | Designing new rudder stock 1

Wooden Boat Plans Australia

Im trying to build a swing-up rudder stock design for my Goat Island Skiff, similar to the one I have on my Laser, except wood, and fitted for the GIS rudder.  The original plans call for a daggerboard style rudder stock where the rudder is removed vertically through the box, and the tiller is permanently attached to the box.  See here.  I am not a big fan of this design, though I appreciate its simplicity.

Here is why:

1.  I do not want a permanently attached tiller to the rudder stock.  I would like to be able to remove the tiller, and leave the rudder in the water, or at least raised but still attached to the transom.

2.  I do not like the bungee cord design to the hold the rudder in place

3. I want to use pintles and gudgeons, which would be difficult with a permanently attached tiller and dropping the assembly into place.

Here is a quick mock-up of a slightly enlarged rudder box per the plans, with a rudimentary rounded rudder top for swingability.

The stock has been extended 3 cm aft, and 1 cm down.  I am limited by the size of the transom and the location of the hole to accept the tiller in the transom.  The tiller would run between the two side of the stock across the top of the rudder and be fastened with a pin.  The spacer in the front of the box would be the same called for in the plans.  The exterior of the stock would have the two re-enforced areas per the plans, running across the top and bottom, and in addition a third re-enforced area to support the axle.  I will probably also trim the leading and trailing edges of the top section of the rudder in the box area to get a good climb out of the water as well as keep it from dragging along the beach.

Thoughts?

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Boat Plans Bartender | Seats fitted

Boat Plans Bartender

The seats are all fitted to the boat. The glue is cured on the supports, the vertical supports have been cut to fit (they will be glued next session) and the seats are in place. The side-arms for BH2 and 4 are cut and ready to be glued. The knees are cut and almost finished. Inwale spacers are cut, the inwales need to be scarfed and theyll be ready too. Things are moving.

Heres a great example why you want to diagram out the dimensions of the front seat per the plans, and then trace something to what youve actually got in the boat before you cut:


Unless youre a very gifted woodworker, of which there are many out there (this is an AMATEUR BLOG, remember?) tracing will be beneficial. The dark black lines are per the plans for the GIS. What you see is what my front seat ended up being to fit in the bow. A little wider up front, very close in the middle, and then wide again in the rear. Ive got a few ideas how this came about, but Im glad I didnt just cut and then try to fit it only to find huge gaps both in the boat and in my wallet as I shelled out 60 bucks for another sheet of ply. This is not a big deal in the end, its truly a slight variation of shape up front, and so it goes.

Heres a few exposures of my beautiful craft as she comes together. Looking good!




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